Grilled Teriyaki Chicken Kabobs

 

2901222707 83f6aeccab m Grilled Teriyaki Chicken Kabobs

Grilling when you don’t have much time is when most people won’t grill. With Grilled Teriyaki Chicken Kabobs, you can have a meal in about 1 hr! The longest part is marinating the chicken and you can even cut that done to 20 minutes. This isn’t even a recipe, it’s a throw it on the skewer and grill it meal.

I used:

  • Chicken
  • Very Teriyaki sauce
  • Mushrooms
  • Onions
  • Red and Green bell peppers
  • Olive oil
  • Salt and pepper 

2901224065 5b3ec4a1b9 m Grilled Teriyaki Chicken KabobsThat’s it!

Cut everything into chunks, marinate the chicken and skewer away. If you use bamboo skewers make sure you soak them first.

 

 

 

 

 

2901223189 39988bc253 m Grilled Teriyaki Chicken Kabobs

Cooking time varies according to the size of the chunks you cut, shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes to cook. Just enough time to cook some rice and grill a few pineapple slices.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“Get out of the kitchen! Light the fire! Start cooking outdoors”

 

fire052 Fix It In Foil, a book review.

 




Dutch oven Cooking in the Cold

Hi everyone! I am very pleased to present to you another guest post. This post is from Mark Hanson of Utah, USA and he write a blog called Mark’s Black Pot, it’s a blog that I read with great interest. He is also a Musician! I hope you enjoy his writing as much as I do. 

Cookin’ in the Cold

 By  Mark Hansen

Mark’s Black Pot

 As winter approaches, many folks will put their dutch ovens into storage.  There are various methods of “winterizing” them, most of them involving making sure they’re clean and dry and don’t have a lot of oil in the bottom that can go rancid before they get pulled out again in the late spring or early summer.  After all, cooking outdoors is for warm weather, right? 

At my house, I have a simple method of keeping my dutch ovens ready for spring: I use them all winter.  The herbal roast turkey is now a family Christmas tradition, as is the pumpkin pie for post-Halloween.  A couple of other favorites include the Russian Coulibiac on a January afternoon, and the Snow Crab Legs (literally!).   

Now, keep in mind, I’ve only been dutching for about two and a half years.  That’s only two winters and they’ve not been the harshest I’ve ever seen, either.  Utah winters are cold and snowy, but not always with the bitter wind chill that more humid climates bring.  Still, I have learned a thing or two that I can share. 

Let me also state, for the record, that I’m not cooking these dishes “in the wild.”  Virtually all of my cooking is done on my back porch.  As a result, I’m not standing out shivering while my food cooks.  I’m inside, snug, usually watching whatever my kids have on the TV.  This is not “roughing it” by any stretch of the imagination. 

I’ve found that in winter cooking there are primarily four issues you have to deal with:  Cold, Wind, Rain, and Snow. 

Dealing with the Cold 

This is probably the simplest of all issues to adapt to: Simply add more coals.  How many?  Well, that depends on how cold it is.  If you’re dealing with general winter-y temperatures of, say, between 20°F and 40°F I’d probably start with two extra coals below, and three to four above, in basic baking and roasting. More if it’s colder, and less, if warmer. 

What you’re cooking also makes a difference.  If you’re cooking a stew, then you’ve got more flexibility, because you can go a bit hotter with less risk of burning. If your heat is too low, you simply cook it longer.  If you’re doing bread, then it’s more critical to get the heat right. Too much heat can burn.  In that case, I would err on the side of caution and not pile on the coals too high. 

dutch oven stand Dutch oven Cooking in the ColdAnother thing I’ve learned is that it’s best to get the ovens up off the ground.  I used to put my dutch ovens on paving bricks, until I learned I was losing a lot of heat from the bottom coals to heating up the brick.  Now, I have these short metal tables/stands that I use.  These are great, since they allow you to get the oven up off the ground.  They also do a good job of reflecting much of the radiant heat back up into the dutch oven. I can actually reach my hand underneath these stands comfortably, and not feel the heat. 

Dealing with the Wind

A lot of cooks I know have fancy tables with wind screens, or wind blockers made of sheet metal, in all kinds of configurations.  I’ve got mixed feelings about that.  I think that wind, if you understand it and plan for it, can actually be your friend. Wind blowing across the coals feeds them more oxygen, stoking them up, so they actually burn hotter.  When it’s cold outside, that can be a good thing. 

The downside is that it’s a little tougher to regulate the temperature, since gusts will come and go.  So, if you’re doing a dish where steady temperature is more critical, like bread, you might want to go with a wind screen, or rotate the dutch oven more frequently, to avoid hot spots. 

Also, keep in mind that since the coals are burning hotter, they will also burn faster so, you need to replenish them more often.   

Dealing with the Rain 

There are two basic problems with dutchin’ in the rain.  One is that the rain could put out your coals.  The other is that if it starts raining pretty hard pretty quickly, the cold rain on the hot dutch oven could crack or damage it. Either scenario is not pretty. 

Generally speaking, if it looks like rain, I’ll cook under some shelter.  My front porch is covered so, it’s still ventilated, but I’m not getting rained on.  I have set up my dutch ovens in my garage, but I caution you about that.  Charcoal gives off carbon monoxide and could be deadly.  My garage is also well ventilated.  I can open the big doors in front, and a door in the back and the winds blow through.  I don’t know scientifically if it would make a difference, but speaking personally, I wouldn’t do dutch oven in an enclosed space with only one door open.  The air would have to be able to flow through the space. 

My in-laws gave me this big round cylindrical metal hood that’s supposedly designed to cover dutch ovens.  It works, and I can even stack two 12” dutch ovens under it, but, even though there are holes around the lower rim and a vent on top, it doesn’t allow enough air circulation.  I’ve had times, trying it out, where it actually extinguished the coals.  I don’t recommend it.   

One quick and easy solution that might work, if there’s not too much wind, would be to set up a big patio umbrella over the ovens. 

Dealing with the Snow 

Problems with snow would be very similar to problems with the rain.  I’ve found that, unless it’s a freaky-white-out blizzard, I can continue cooking in flurries or even relatively steady snow.  Covering it somehow is a good strategy, like the umbrella or the hood, as long as you can keep air flowing over the coals. 

Ultimately, in all of this, even though I’m cooking from the relative comfort of my heated home, I still think from time to time about my pioneer ancestors that had to cook in their dutch ovens regardless of the weather.  If they didn’t cook, they didn’t eat.  So, is it possible to make good food in tough weather?  Yes.  Don’t let it stop you! 

 

Thank you Mark for a great article! I know you just answered a lot of question that Dutch oven cooks have. I hope everyone visits Marks Blog Mark’s Black Pot, make sure to tell him hi from Cooking Outdoors!! 

Gary

 

“Get out of the kitchen! Light the fire! Start cooking outdoors”

 

fire052 Fix It In Foil, a book review.

 

 

 

 

 




Cast iron rust removal by NorCalDutchOvenDave

This is an article about rust removal for cast iron by my friend Dave Herzog. He wrote this for one of the Yahoo groups about Dutch oven cooking. It is a unique way of removing rust!

Coleen Sloan taught me how to remove rust from cast iron with a couple of household items and the method is not toxic in any way. I have used this method many times with great success and for heavy rust I just let the iron soak two to three days instead of over night.

You need to gather the following items together:

  • 1 to 2 gallons apple cider vinegar (not apple cider flavored vinegar) super important.
  • a large non reactive (plastic preferred) tub.
  • enough alfalfa hay or pellets to completely cover the cast iron.
  • enough hot water (120 degrees or hotter) to cover the cast iron by at least 1″ over the top.
  • I use an S.O.S. Pad for lighter rust and a wire wheel or brush for heavier rust

Take the wire wheel brush for heavy rust or use an S.O.S. Pad and hot water for lighter rust and scrub or brush the pot to remove rust chips, heavy or loose rust and rinse with hot water and dry in a 225 degree oven for 30 minutes. This helps in the total removal of rust and sometimes even determines if you need to soak the cast iron or not. When the cast iron dries, you may notice a light orange dust covering the surface. This is normal and ok. If all you have left is the orange dust and no remaining rust deposits or bright orange spots, go ahead and season your cast iron and use it. If you have rust remaining in the form of brighter orange spots etc. Then proceed to the remaining steps.

Please note: alfalfa cubes or pellets will expand in volume anywhere from 4 to 8 times so you do not need to completely cover a piece with cubes or pellets. Try rehydrating cubes or pellets with warm water for 30 minutes prior to soaking.

Place a 1″ layer of alfalfa on the bottom of the large plastic tub then place the cast iron on top of the alfalfa layer. Fill the tub and interior of the cast iron with alfalfa and cover 1 to 2″ over the top of the cast iron.

Add a solution of 3 parts of hot water and 1 part of apple cider vinegar to completely cover the cast iron 3:1 I like to boil the water but you need to be careful with the hot water when pouring into the tub. You can use hot tap water that is over 120 degrees F.

Let this solution soak over night for lighter rust and 2 to 3 days for heavy rust. Remove the cast iron from the solution and rinse the cast iron with cold water to remove the alfalfa. Scrub with an S.O.S. Pad in hot water and rinse with very hot water. Place the cast iron into a 225 degree preheated oven for 30 minutes to dry the cast iron completely. To season increase the temperature to 500 and proceed with the seasoning process at 500 degrees.

On the note of electrolysis for rust removal go to this link:

http://www.wag-society.org/Electrolysis/electros.php

This is where you can get the best description of a set up and how to do it.

You can also go to http://www.idos.org and click on the electrolysis link there for more info and great pictures.

Dave Herzog

 

Thanks Dave for sharing this with everyone!!

 

“Get out of the kitchen! Light the fire! Start cooking outdoors”

 

fire052 Fix It In Foil, a book review.

 

 

 




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